Thessaloniki is for lonely souls who need a hug and a pastry
Recently, I watched an episode of Mad Men (what a fantastic show, by the way), and it ended with a quote that instantly made me think of my visit to Thessaloniki. Now, neither the show nor the episode had anything to do with the city, but somehow, those words reminded me of my few days there.
There were phrases of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony that still made Coe cry. He always thought it had to do with the circumstances of the composition itself. He imagined Beethoven deaf and soul-sick, his heart broken, scribbling furiously while Death stood in the doorway, clipping his nails.
Still, Coe thought, it might have been living in the country that was making him cry. It was killing him with its silence and loneliness – making everything ordinary too beautiful to bear.
I visited Thessaloniki back in 2017, right when Greece was in the middle of a major refugee crisis. That was actually the main reason for my visit—we toured several refugee camps and spoke to the Greek volunteers who were tirelessly helping the (mostly) Syrian refugees. My most vivid memory is of a group of refugee men sitting quietly on the docks at dusk, watching the ships go by. They were together in a group of six or seven, but their solitude and hopelessness was almost overwhelming. It made me wonder, (1) What does it mean to find beauty in solitude? If you're a traveler who journals, this could be the perfect moment to pull out your notebook and reflect.
At that time, I was feeling pretty lonely myself. However, the warmth and welcoming vibe of Thessaloniki (and Greece in general) had its way of lifting me up when I needed it most. This charming port city of Northern Greece is the ideal antidote to any traveler feeling a bit lonely and in need of some heartwarming hospitality.
Known as Greece's cultural soul and its culinary crown jewel, Thessaloniki is like that friend who always has a spare seat at the dinner table and insists you have seconds. It’s a city that makes you think, (2) How do I navigate my identity in a place - any place - that is so steeped in history? It’s a question worth exploring over a cup of Greek coffee at one of the city’s cozy cafes.
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This city is a melting pot of history, flavors, and laid-back vibes, where everyone from ancient Romans to contemporary artists seems to have left a little piece of themselves behind. And don’t worry, whether you're staying in a cozy guesthouse in the Upper Town or a chic boutique hotel near Aristotelous Square, Thessaloniki’s accommodations come with the kind of warmth that’ll make you feel like you’ve just walked into a long-lost relative’s home—complete with strong Greek coffee and a knowing smile.
Aristotelous Square is where you should begin your Thessaloniki adventure, even if you’re feeling like you might blend in better with the pigeons than the people. This grand square is the heart of the city and the best spot to sip a frappe (iced coffee) and let the buzz of life all around you work its magic. Pull up a chair at one of the many cafés and let the friendly locals strike up a conversation—they’re experts at turning strangers into friends. Watch the world go by and soak up the sea breeze, with the White Tower and the Thermaic Gulf sparkling in the distance. This could be the ideal setting to journal about (3) What is the role of tradition in my life?
Aristotelous Square
Wander into the Rotunda, an ancient monument that has lived many lives. This 4th-century structure has been a Roman mausoleum, a Christian church, and a mosque, which pretty much makes it Thessaloniki’s overachiever in historical versatility. Step inside and admire the stunning mosaics that still shimmer under the sunlight, as if whispering, “Everything old is new again.” As you stand there in awe, take a moment to reflect or jot down in your journal, (4) How does travel shape my perspectives on loneliness and belonging?
Thessaloniki wears its culture like a well-loved coat, full of patches from every era it’s lived through. This city has a knack for giving the world remarkable people, like philosopher Aristotle, who might’ve started his genius journey just a stone’s throw away, and modern stars like filmmaker Theo Angelopoulos and singer Vassilis Tsitsanis, who filled Greece with the soulful sounds of rebetiko (also known as “Greek blues”). It’s also a city made for readers, where cozy bookstores and book cafes invite you to lose yourself in literature, finding stories that resonate with the soul of a place that’s always embraced art, philosophy, and the written word.
The architecture here is an eclectic scrapbook of influences, from Byzantine churches with their jaw-dropping mosaics to the Ottoman relics that give the streets their unique character. Street art is alive and kicking in Thessaloniki, with murals splashing color onto city walls, making every stroll feel like a mini art gallery visit. And let’s not forget the music scene—it ranges from traditional bouzouki tunes in cozy tavernas to indie gigs in hipster bars where the vibe is as laid-back as a Greek sunset.
White Tower
When loneliness hits, there’s no better remedy than good food, and Thessaloniki knows how to feed both your stomach and your soul. Start with bougatsa, a flaky pastry that can be filled with custard, cheese, or minced meat, depending on how sweet or savory your cravings are. Eat it the Thessaloniki way—standing up, with powdered sugar flying everywhere, like you're auditioning for a Greek cooking show. For a deeper dive into the city's flavors, head to Ladadika, the old oil market district that’s now packed with tavernas and ouzeries where the tables are always crowded, the conversations are loud, and the welcome is warmer than a Greek summer.
If you’re looking for a literal and figurative elevation of spirit, climb up to Ano Poli (Upper Town). This district feels like a postcard come to life, with its colorful houses, cobblestone streets, and the best panoramic views in the city. The people here are as warm as the sunset that sets the rooftops aglow, and the atmosphere is laid-back enough to make you feel like you’ve found a little piece of home. Pause for a moment at the Heptapyrgion Fortress, where the dramatic history might just match your dramatic travel woes, but the view will definitely help you put things in perspective. This could be a moment to pull out your journal and ask yourself, (5) What does it mean to create a home in a world that’s ever-changing?
The nightlife in Thessaloniki is where this city really shows off its open-hearted spirit. If you’re feeling lonely, there’s nothing like the bouzoukia—a place where traditional Greek music, dance, and even a bit of flower-throwing all come together in a night that could only be described as organized chaos. Don’t be shy; the locals will happily pull you into their circle of dance like they’ve known you forever. It’s loud, it’s lively, and it’s just the kind of “welcome home” hug you didn’t know you needed.
Modiano market
Modiano market is Thessaloniki’s culinary playground, where the scent of spices, fresh produce, and baked goods fills the air. This market isn’t just about buying food; it’s about tasting Thessaloniki’s soul. Chat with the vendors who have been selling here for generations, sample olives, feta, and dried fruits, and let yourself be tempted by the sights and sounds of people trading both goods and laughter. Before you know it, you'll have a snack in one hand and a conversation partner in the other. It’s a great spot to reflect on (6) In what ways can I contribute to a community in need?
When you need a quiet moment or a place to reflect, head to the Nea Paralia seafront promenade. Take a leisurely stroll down this coastal path, where the sea breeze seems to carry whispers of the city's ancient secrets. Stop by the Umbrellas sculpture, a quirky and whimsical installation that makes for the perfect spot to contemplate life’s ups and downs. Here, the sunset paints the sky in shades that even Instagram filters can’t compete with, inviting you to journal about your thoughts on (6) What does it mean to find beauty in solitude?
The Umbrellas
In Thessaloniki, you might arrive as a lonely traveler, but you’ll leave as someone who’s been adopted by the city's big, warm heart. From the warm greetings in its squares and the shared laughs in its tavernas to the dance circles that never close, Thessaloniki is a place where every solo wanderer finds a welcome embrace. Its streets are alive with stories, its food feels like a hug from the inside, and its people? They’ll make sure you never have to sip your ouzo alone. So, let Thessaloniki work its magic on you—it’s a friend you haven’t met yet, and the perfect place to ponder the questions that really matter.
I’m always grateful for thoughts & comments below.
You can search for any destination currently featured on mucho mundo here, or explore other places where you can embrace, contemplate or combat solitude, such as Granada, Budapest, Istanbul, Stockholm or Sarajevo.
